Curvy eyelashes that you can see in your peripheral vision are an obvious beauty choice. And yet, the aesthetic is hard to achieve. Enter the lash lift, otherwise known as a ‘perm' for poker-straight lashes, which creates the closest thing we've seen to a full-bodied, perfectly fanned-out curl.
As its moniker suggests, this semi-permanent treatment is the equivalent of a facelift for lash hair. Die-hard fans claim it is a good alternative if you regularly find yourself wrestling with lash glue and strips of false eyelashes. Or for those who are weary of shellacking their lashes with multiple passes of a mascara that promises – but never seems to hold – a next-level curl.
To get more details, GLAMOUR spoke to a lash expert and two leading ocuplastic surgeons for everything you need to know about getting a lash lift, whether it's safe and how long the results last.
What is a lash lift?
A lash lift is a professional service that changes the curl pattern of your natural lash. Put simply, it eliminates the need for an eyelash curler, says lash expert Teresa Smith at I Love Lash. A silicone shield, that doubles up as a guard and “curling rod”, is placed onto your eyelids and the lashes are brushed back to lay against the curve of the shield. “A special lifting lotion is applied over the top of the lashes to alter their shape and to mimic the curve of the shield,” she adds.
As for which shape to choose? Teresa prefers a smooth curl over an ‘L’ angled curl that starts at the roots. “The results last longer and a smooth curl grows out more naturally, rather than looking like a hook,” she adds.
Who is a good candidate for a lash lift?
Everyone's lashes are different but typically someone whose lashes grow downwards, or are poker straight, would benefit from this eye-opening (literally) procedure.
If you have dry eyes, blepharitis or dermatoses like rosacea or eczema though, proceed with caution, says Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon, facial aesthetics doctor and founder of MZ Skin.
What is the process?
Avoid mascara for two days prior to your appointment as it can leave behind a residue that prevents the lifting lotion from adhering to your lashes. On the day, Teresa recommends arriving make-up free and avoiding oily products on your lashes and around your eyes. Furthermore, she says, don't drink caffeine, which can cause twitchy eyelids, and remove any contact lenses.
Every lash lift should start with a consultation to discuss the desired results. Your lash artist will assess the growth pattern of your natural lashes and the shape of your eyes to determine the correct shape of silicone shield to lift and curl your lashes. A before picture is usually taken, too.
Once in the chair, be prepared to sit with your eyes closed for between 1 hour and 1 hour 30 minutes. Your lashes and surrounding skin will first be cleansed to remove any residual makeup and oil. “Any ‘wild’ lash layers that grow much higher than the main lash rows are isolated with a special glue to avoid a kink,” says Teresa.
Then the chosen curved shield is placed close to the lash line and the eyelashes are separated and stuck down over the top. "A lifting lotion is applied to break down the disulphide bonds – the strongest bonds of the hair – in order to make them more malleable and mould the lashes to the shape of the shield,” says Teresa.
Next, the lifting lotion is removed and a setting lotion applied “to rebuild the disulphide bonds and set the new curled shape into place,” adds Teresa. After around 45 minutes, the lashes are cleansed and a hydrating serum is applied to restore moisture. Finally, an after photo is taken to keep on file for future reference.
Can you have any other lash treatments done at the same time?
Teresa actually recommends having a lash tint done during the same appointment, prior to applying the hydrating serum. “A tint will darken the transparent tips of the lashes, instantly giving the appearance of more length and volume,” says Teresa. “The pH level of the lash lifting products can also lighten or warm up the hair colour, so even if you have naturally dark lashes, a tint is always recommended,” she adds.
How can a lash lift be customised to the individual?
Teresa says that a lash lift can be fully customised based on the individual's lash thickness, direction of growth, lash layers, lash porosity, eye shape and bone structure. “The main ways to customise the lift is by using the right shape and size of shield; appropriate processing timings on each section of the lash line (the inners, middle and outer area may require different times) and specific placement of lash lift lotion based on the desired look,” she says.
Proof, surely that this treatment is not only artistic but an exact science.
What about aftercare?
Following a lash lift, there's no required downtime. You will just need to avoid getting your lashes wet for the first 24 hours – so no shower, steam or sweating from heavy exercise or a sauna. Above all, don't rub your eyes as this can disrupt the curl.
The good news is, the aftercare is surprisingly low maintenance. To keep your lashes healthy, it's important to swipe on a professional lash conditioning serum. Skip any products that contain oils such as castor oil – Teresa is a fan of using the Elleeplex Advanced Aftercare Formula or Nouveau Lashes Lash & Brow Conditioning Serum daily. It's also worth brushing your lashes with a clean spoolie to keep them fluffed up and separated.
“You can have another lash tint two to four weeks after your initial lash lifting appointment to boost the colour,” Teresa adds. “A standalone lash tint is processed for longer during this follow up appointment to keep your lashes looking their best.”
How long does a lash lift last?
With the right aftercare, results from a lash lift last between six to eight weeks.
But are lash lifts safe and do they damage your eyelashes?
It goes without saying that you should never attempt to do your own lash lift at home, as you could damage your eyesight if you accidentally get the formula in your eyes. “There is the possibility of chemical injury to the eye itself if a lash lift is not well implemented,” says Dr Zamani. “If the solution enters the eye, there can be irritation or worse, a chemical burn, which may affect vision long term. Furthermore, there are many unregulated perming solutions available in the market with ingredients that can cause inflammation, redness and puffiness.”
Generally-speaking, lash lifts are safe in the hands of an experienced professional who is certified to lift the lashes in the most sanitised and safe way. But there are potential hazards to take into account. “Lash lifts are relatively new and there are associated risks with this procedure,” says Dr Zamani. “The chemical solution used can break down the proteins of the lashes making them weaker and more prone to falling out. The solution can also cause inflammation and irritation to the eyelid causing redness, swelling and potential for blistering.”
For this reason, it's important to do your research and have a patch test at least 24 hours before your first lash lift appointment. A little of the lifting solution will be applied on your inner forearm and, if irritation occurs, heed the warning that this treatment isn't for you.
Can I put mascara on a lash lift?
You may find that you don't need to wear mascara after a lash lift, but you can if you want to. “I would just recommend using a lash conditioner as a primer first, and then removing the mascara with care at the end of the day,” says Teresa.
You may also want to avoid waterproof formulas as they can leave behind a residue that weakens the effect of the lift over time.
What is a laser lash lift?
Put simply, a laser lash lift is a minimally painful procedure that changes the direction that lashes grow out of the eyelids. It involves application of an anaesthetic cream on the eye before a CO2 laser makes small ablations above the lash line "in two or three rows just above the lash root," explains Dr Daniel Ezra, specialist ophthalmic and oculoplastic consultant based at Moorfields Private Eye Hospital.
He continues, "laser causes the skin to contract. Most people have lashes that point straight forwards or tilt downwards but with the Laser Lash Lift, you can actually see the lashes tilting upwards as soon as the laser touches the skin."
Results typically lash for one year but the treatment may not be suitable for darker skin tones as melanin-rich skin absorbs more laser energy, which can cause hyperpigmentation or even burns.
How much do lash lifts cost?
According to Teresa, prices for a lash lift start from £25 to upwards of £80 depending on location. The Laser Lash Lift with Dr Ezra costs £750.
Our verdict
GLAMOUR's associate beauty director Lottie Winter put the LVL Lash Lift to the test. “On the first week, I didn't need to put on mascara at all but by the second week, I was topping it up with a light coating,” she explains. “While it says the treatment lasts six to eight weeks, I only experienced a noticeable difference for four, but that might be because the dye wears off quicker than the perm, and without the dye, my blonde lashes get lost. But LVL certainly ticked all the boxes for barefaced beach beauty and will be a firm fixture in my pre-holiday prep from now on.”
For more from Fiona Emblazon, GLAMOUR's Acting Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
ncG1vNJzZmivp6x7qLjApqauqp2WtKLGyKecZ5ufY8Kse8Crq6KbnJp8ra3SoWSloZap