There are times when I yearn for the thrill of discovering something new. Of travelling to off-the-beaten-track destinations free from other tourists, of exploring some far-off wilderness untarnished by others, of launching myself head-first into adventures that get my soul singing and my heart racing.
And sometimes I just want a damn beach holiday.
So, when the opportunity arose to spend four nights in the Caribbean, I couldn't resist. It's easy for well-versed travellers to turn their nose up at the type of all-inclusive luxury resorts that get slapped over the covers of holiday brochures, but when you're a burnt-out 30-something journalist looking to temporarily swap their small north London flat for sun-soaked island life, you can't afford to be picky.
And actually, I soon realised that any of that pomposity wasn't warranted here anyway. After a breezy direct flight to tiny Antigua – I say ‘tiny’, because this half of the two-island nation of Antigua and Barbuda is just 13 miles across – I checked into Curtain Bluff, a charming retreat on 20 acres of verdant gardens overlooking two golden-sand beaches. Originally built as a 22-room resort in the 1960s by former US World War II fighter pilot, Howard Hulford, the hotel now offers 72 rooms and suites, two restaurants, a hilltop spa, palm tree-lined swimming pool, and popular tennis courts complete with instructors for guests who want to perfect their serve.
Curtain Bluff may have grown since its inception, but it still retains the warm, familial atmosphere of an independently-owned property that so many blockbuster resorts and hotel chains lack. Hulford died in 2009, but his wife Chelle still lives in a villa perched at the top of the bluff, where she hosts weekly cocktail parties for guests. There's no tipping here; instead, donations are taken for the Old Road Fund charity, funded by Curtain Bluff and its guests, which gives back to the local community through education, healthcare, building repairs and community projects. It's no wonder 65% of Curtain Bluff's guests are repeat visitors, with some coming back every year for more than three decades.
Even entry-level rooms are gasp-worthy and immaculate, with ground-floor junior suites opening straight onto the beach, where hammocks are tied between towering palm trees and the startlingly blue sea stretches to the horizon. In lieu of direct beach access, upper level suites boast well-sized balconies – I indulged in room-service breakfast here one morning, complete with mimosas, which I wholeheartedly recommend – with spectacular views along the beach. If you're really looking to splash out, book into one of the exquisite Hulford Collection suites, which feature sprawling verandas, unbeatable sea views and private plunge pools.
Our first evening was spent blissfully draped over sun loungers on the beach, sipping sweet, fruity rum punches (not, unsurprisingly, for the last time) while the warm evening sun started to sink below the horizon, turning the sky a soft candy pink. The only sounds were from the gently swaying palms above, the calm waves like ripples of silk lapping at the shore, and the sweet chirps of small, yellow-breasted birds – which we later learned are, adorably, called ‘bananaquits’ – flitting between the trees.
Then it was on to the hotel's beachfront restaurant, Sea Grape, where Mediterranean and Caribbean flavours make the just-caught seafood and fresh, local produce sing. We opted for the catch of the day, a succulent fillet of red snapper on a bed of whipped potatoes and veg, topped with buttery shrimp and zingy capers.
The Tamarind Tree is the hotel's other, more formal restaurant, where a centuries-old tamarind tree rises from the centre of the courtyard, and serves equally delicious à la carte breakfasts and dinners. Here, a live band plays reggae and soul classics every night beneath the tamarind tree.
If you can tear yourself away from the sun lounger, don't miss the daily snorkelling excursions to nearby Cades Reef, where clear visibility allows you to spot an abundance of marine life, including turtles, moray eels, reef sharks, sting rays and barracuda (we were lucky enough to spot the latter two during our excursion). If snorkelling isn't your thing, there's a wide variety of other water sports on offer at the hotel, including water skiing, paddle boarding, sailing and kayaking.
As is the lure of luxury all-inclusive resorts, you could easily spend your entire time on Antigua enjoying Curtain Bluff. But there are plenty of reasons to explore the island beyond your hotel. Despite its modest size, Antigua is home to 365 beaches (you'll likely hear it affectionately called by its nickname, ‘The Land of 365 Beaches’), a lush interior, a storied history and of course, an easy-going, rum-chilled party scene.
Hop in a taxi to Shirley Heights, a restored military lookout first used during the late-18th century American War of Independence, where its high vantage point meant sentry could spot enemy ships approaching English Harbour below. Today, Shirley Heights Lookout offers the best view on the island, stretching past the swathes of lush greenery to historic Nelson's Dockyard and the sail-dotted harbour below. Don't miss the Sunday night barbecue at Shirley Heights – described as the ‘biggest and best party in Antigua and Barbuda’ – where locals and visitors alike gather to watch the sunset, eat authentic food, drink liberally-poured cocktails and listen to feel-good live music. Most tourists flock to the crowded viewpoint to take photos of the sunset, then leave once they've had their taste of rum punch. Don't follow them. We stayed late, tucking into flavour-packed jerked chicken and juicy shrimp, before singing and dancing with people we'd never met in the balmy evening heat.
The next morning, soothe your sore, rum-soaked soul at The Tamarind Tree with a traditional Antiguan breakfast of salt fish, eggs and plantain, washed down with the day's choice of freshly-made smoothie. Then while it's still morning – before the midday sun makes exploring too tiresome – visit some of Antigua's historical sites. Head to Nelson's Dockyard, named after the British admiral who was stationed here in the 18th century, now a charming UNESCO-listed marina. While there are quaint shops and restaurants to enjoy, the dockyard is also an opportunity to learn about Antigua's history, and the part it played in imperialist Britain's unrelenting quest for power. Take the time to learn further about the history of slavery and life on the island's former sugar plantations at the Museum of Antigua and Barbuda in the capital, St John's, or at Betty's Hope, Antigua's first large-scale sugar plantation, now a museum and monument.
Elsewhere on the island, hike in the rainforest at Wallings Nature Reserve, swim with stingrays at Stingray City, or zip over the jungle canopy at Antigua Rainforest Zipline Tours. Suffice to say, there's plenty more to Antigua than its world-famous beaches, one for every day of the year.
Back at Curtain Bluff, take in the last of the evening sun from your balcony or hammock, listen to the bananaquits chirping in the trees, and plan how you'll spend tomorrow, another day on this tiny paradise island.
Rooms start from $790 (£617) in low season and $1,535 (£1200) in high season.
Save when you book your upcoming holiday with these booking.com discount codes, easyjet promp codes and jet2holiday discount codes.
**For great deals on your next flight or package deal, book with Virgin Atlantic. **
ncG1vNJzZmivp6x7qLjApqauqp2WtKLGyKecZ5ufY8Kse8Crq6KbnJp8pMHRrZiipl2XubayxWaYp6yZnMKieceoq56kXaeyt7XEsA%3D%3D